Artisans Of Glass
May 25, 2012, 11:47:52 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: 1   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Fusing Molds  (Read 426 times)
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
Amber
Hero Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 510


Local Moderator


WWW
« on: July 25, 2009, 12:03:04 PM »
ReplyReply

So one last questions before I take off for a week of camping tomorrow :). I picked up a few small/fun items at Clay Cafe and hoping to test them out when I get back, the dish I'm crossing my fingers will be flat enough on the bottom, it's small at about 5" across. I also picked up some 'cute' items like a small butterfly votive holder, again crossing my fingers that it'll be flat enough. I also got a small butterfly flat mold that's 2" and a small shell at about 1.5" tall, these I'm going to play with tack fusing onto panels and the shell I can maybe make a pendant out of too.
My one questions for you folks is when I drill a hole can I use just a regular drill on low speed with the smallest bit? Or would that crack it?
Thanks for all your help!!!
« Last Edit: July 25, 2009, 12:08:46 PM by Amber » Logged
Anne
Global Moderator
Excalibur Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 2534



« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2009, 12:54:59 PM »
ReplyReply

Amber, sorry I can't answer your question, haven't tried doing this with bisque wear yet.  And Becki's computer is in the hospital so if she's not able to answer you for a while that's why! Cool molds, and well worth trying!
Logged
Kev
AOG Founder
Administrator
Excalibur Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 7488



WWW
« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2009, 12:57:27 PM »
ReplyReply

I have no idea as well..I would suggest asking the place you got it from. I suspect any kind of pressure exerted on it is going to crack it. Maybe you can return them and ask them when they are making the next batch to place small holes in them for you...just a thought.
Logged
PiscesGlass
Guest
« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2009, 03:11:21 PM »
ReplyReply

I'm not totally sure of the answer for this either..but if you do try to drill them, I'd go slow..and put a little water in the bottom of each while drilling..it works for glass....

If they can't be used as they are..I don't know how expensive they were..but maybe it's worth a try.
Joan might be able to give you some tips, she worked with ceramics for a long while.

De
Logged
Kev
AOG Founder
Administrator
Excalibur Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 7488



WWW
« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2009, 03:52:41 PM »
ReplyReply

Good idea De...Joan probably knows.
Logged
ct4mom
Administrator
Excalibur Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3431



« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2009, 04:50:08 PM »
ReplyReply

I emailed Becki with the same question. My son got me 5 great molds  4 are pretty big pieces all over 10" and have no holes either but one did. I havent heard from Becki yet but if I do I'll pass her asnwer on...Great molds Amber
Logged
Kev
AOG Founder
Administrator
Excalibur Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 7488



WWW
« Reply #6 on: July 25, 2009, 05:30:24 PM »
ReplyReply

Apparently Becki's computer is in sickbay.
Logged
JoanFrances
Global Moderator
Excalibur Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3034



WWW
« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2009, 07:20:04 AM »
ReplyReply

Amber I don't know a thing about using ceramic items for glass molds.

If you post a picture of the items you bought, I will be able to tell you if these items would need a whole, but only based on the ceramic basis.

If you're pieces are already fired to a bisque state, then more than likely they are fine.  In ceramic firing, anything that has an attachment, the location of the attachment is what needs to be vented.  An example of venting would be a tea pot handle the spots of the handle that touch the tea pot must have a hole through both the tea pot and the handle, at the connection spot.  This helps the greenware piece dry all the way through, and fires with an air circulation.  If the piece were not to have a whole at those places, the piece would explode during the firing.  If you're piece is not fired correctly, you may experience stree cracks when you use them in you're glass kiln. 

Many people fire pieces to a bisque firing for the first firing others do a greenware firing for the first firing.  Generally the bisque firing is used for the glaze firing.   When firing ceramic, the kiln uses a cone, each cone is a number, the number represents the length of time it will take for the kiln to break the cone, and turn the kiln off. 
Logged
JoanFrances
Global Moderator
Excalibur Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3034



WWW
« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2009, 07:22:13 AM »
ReplyReply

Sorry Amber, I just now saw you're molds.  These appear to be one piece pourings which should not need any holes.


If you could turn them over and take a picture of the back side I would be able to tell you more
Logged
JoanFrances
Global Moderator
Excalibur Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3034



WWW
« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2009, 07:34:52 AM »
ReplyReply

Ok, Kev just let me know you wanted to know "how to drill the bisque pieces".  I used a dremel with a diamond drill bit.

I can't tell you where to put the holes or what size you need though.
Logged
Becki
Moderator
Super Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1769


Be yourself. Everyone else is taken.


« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2009, 09:33:45 AM »
ReplyReply

Hi guys!  My computer is in the hospital but I'm at a friends place right now.  Haven't checked my email yet, Di!

Any molds used for slumping should have a few small holes in the bottom.  Use a small drill bit and a dremel, drill...whatever and go slowly.  If you aren't sure about placement check out some mold sites to get an idea.
Logged
Pages: 1   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.16 :: SMF hosting by SiteGround :: :: SMF © 2006-2008, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.066 seconds with 22 queries.