Kaleidoscope question

[Sue in NC]

Some weeks back, I made a simple kit kaleidoscope during a workshop. The end toward the wheel is open and has no glass covering it.  I worry about dust possibly getting on the mirror.  Both that instructor and another highly experienced stained glass artist whom I asked to help me assure me that I am being overly concerned.

I would still sort of like to put glass over the opening, but I do not know if regular window glass is OK to use.  I believe the glass I used at the eye end was thinner, but there isn't any of that left.

If I am being silly to be concerned, tell me and I will let it go.

Sue

[Rebecca]

I don't like them open, but I will let Jim answer this one.

Rebecca

[Scope Builder]

Sue,

Absolutely you want to close up both ends.  Whoever said not to worry about dust getting on the mirrors is just plain wrong add to that once the dust is there is is nearly impossible to clean.  You can use canned air but you will never get it all out.  I use plain window glass all the time to close the ends.  The greatest danger closing the ends is flux vapor contamination on the mirrors.  I fit the glass to the end of the body foil the cap and tin the foil then I clean the glass and tack solder it to the end of the body.  Use flux very carefully at this point.  I use Laco Brite Non Acid liquid flux for sealing up the ends and  I dip a Q-tip in the flux and blot the Q-tip on a paper towel, then hold the body so that any flux will run away from the mirrors and carefully seal the end with solder try not to get it too hot.  Gradually build up the solder bead to your satisfaction switch back and forth end to end if necessary to keep from over heating.  If mine start to get too hot I take a break and let it cool down some.  Hope this makes some sense.

Once my mirror set is assembled I tape the ends with masking tape until the ends are closed.

In looking at your picture you have room on the object chamber end for a cap as well.  I would do away with the two spacers on the axle and if there is enough thread on  the axle shorten it some so that when the brass ball is tight it doesn't bind the wheel.  I cut them off with a dremel cut off wheel.  You want the object chamber as close to the end of the mirrors as possible.

[Tre V]

Sue thank you for opening this thread. I have a kit but haven't had time to start it. Having never made one I'm a little unsure of myself.

And Jim...thanks for taking the time to answer. It is valuable information!

[Sue in NC]

I'm glad the thread might be of help to you, Tre.  It sure is helping me!

Because I made the scope in a workshop, I didn't get any printed directions with it. The instructor talked me through it. One thing that helped me was he put masking tape across the triangular piece of clear glass that forms the eye piece. Since it sits inside the casing, the tape held it in place for me until I could tack it.

I also learned too late not to put too many small, colored bits in the chamber. I should have added more clear bits and some bigger bits as well.  I didn't really get to see what the patterns looked like until the disk was sealed. It still makes nice patterns, however.

Everything is a learning experience.

Sue

[Scope Builder]

There is a wealth of information on building kaleidoscopes at the yahoo group KBKB (Kaleidoscope Builder Knowledge Base) you can get as deep into the science behind kaleidoscope as you want.  You will have to join the group, which is free, and no one bugs you.  I have been a member for several years.  If you go there in addition to the forum, where you can ask questions, if you wish or go to the "files" section for the "how to" stuff.  Kits are a great place to start.  Sue, can you take some pictures of the images and post them?

[Sue in NC]

Here are some inside views.

[Scope Builder]

Thanks Sue they look good, I like a three mirror scope image.  I sure would close it up though, you don't want to spoil the scope.

[Kev]

Pretty!

[Sue in NC]

I have an Ottlite I bought years ago to use while painting with acrylics to aid color choices.  I sat the chamber right on the light and got the photos that way. It has been a long time since I had even turned that light on--never thought about it possibly being useful in stained glass work.

[Scope Builder]

I use an Ottlight bulb (100 watt equivalent) on my work bench light and I love it.  They cost about $15 here but they have a long life so it is worth the cost.