Soldering

[glassman52]

I have been using "Old Master's" (liquid) by Novacan but what I use to have years ago was I think called" Nokorode" and I was pleased with that stuff.

[Rebecca]

How much flux are you using?  I usually use Old Masters and have never had it "burn off."  It might evaporate a bit, but that doesn't affect the solder.  The flux has already done it's job by then.

Rebecca

[glassman52]

Well, I call it burn off but yes it does evaporate and with 50/50 I seem to need it saturated for it to flow decently and even then it looks sorta crappy. I like the jell because it doesn't evaporate as quickly and it cleans up better than paste. 

[Graham]

50/50 simply doesn't flow as nicely as 60/40. That's why 60/40 is far more popular among glassers.

I like Glastar Gel. It works well for me and as you say, it cleans up easily. I usually use a paste flux when leading. It stays put.

[Rebecca]

It is probable that by "saturating" the 50/50, you put so much flux that the iron is cooling too much because the heat energy is going into evaporating the flux instead of melting the solder.  Try less flux and more heat.  Don't breathe the flux as it evaporates.  Graham is correct, 50/50 takes more heat and doesn't flow as nicely as 60/40, but with sufficient heat it melts and is smooth.  To be smooth, the solder has to melt.  Once it is liquid, it can't help but be smooth.  If it doesn't melt, but just gets "pasty;" it will not be smooth.

Rebecca

[Stephen Richard]

50/50 simply doesn't flow as nicely as 60/40. That's why 60/40 is far more popular among glassers.
..........

But only if glassers is defined as those working with copper foil.  Many working with lead came choose 40/60 a solder alloy which has a greater range between solid and liquid than 60/40 or even 50/50 does.

Yes every time I am going to be running a bead, I choose 60/40, but when I am soldering joints, I use 40/60 as it gives me flatter joints than 60/40

Stephen

[Kev]

I've only ever used 50/50. I've yet to try 60/40.

[Graham]

But only if glassers is defined as those working with copper foil.  Many working with lead came choose 40/60 a solder alloy which has a greater range between solid and liquid than 60/40 or even 50/50 does.


Stephen

Glassers are "generic".

I think, Steve, that the 60/40 choice is not so popular with American glassers, of the lead came persuasion. I may be wrong, but I know nobody that uses 60/40. And, though I have seen 40/60 once or twice, I don't recall seeing it on any stained glass materials retailer's shelf. I had a few rolls that came from a retiree inventory many years ago. I didn't like it, but that was probably because I was doing foil work - which was over 80% of my output.

I'd be interested to hear if others on the board choose 40/60. Maybe others should be trying it, if you like it so much. (I'm way to old to be tryin' new stuff)

[glassman52]

Graham, what is your preference for both lead and or foil?

[Anne]

to be honest I didn't even know one could buy 40/60.  Whodathunk..........Will have to pay more attention next time I go to my suppliers I guess.  I used to use 63/37 till it got too expensive now I use 60/40 too.

[Rebecca]

Never saw 40/60.  I usually use 50/50 with lead, but sometimes 60/40.  I usually use 60/40 with foil, but sometimes 50/50.

Rebecca

[Graham]

Graham, what is your preference for both lead and or foil?

In latter years I used 60/40 for most everything, but in the past I used 50/50 for came work. Before that I used 50/50 for everything.

[Stephen Richard]

The last and possibly most full of personal opinions in my series on soldering is available here:

http://verrier-processes.blogspot.com/2012/01/soldering_29.html

[Nancy C.]

Hello Stephen,
   Enjoyed the information, thank you.  I am taking a class at the community college with a great teacher who is teaching us to solder in these steps:

Tack (not on joints)
Flat solder (to fill in between glass)
Turn over piece then flat solder
Bead solder on that side
Turn piece back over and do final bead

Based on your information below, would it be a good idea to do the flat soldering with 50/50 then do the bead with 60/40 capitalizing on the differences of the two?

"The 63/37 and 60/40 solders are most often used in copper foil work because of their narrower melting range. This allows the solder to set more quickly than the solders with higher lead content. They tend to give smoother beads also.

 50/50 and 40/60 solders are more often used in leaded panel work. Their wider range of melting temperatures allows the solder to spread and become flat."

[Kev]

I've only ever used 50/50 for foil and lead.

[Stephen Richard]

Hello Stephen,
   Enjoyed the information, thank you.  I am taking a class at the community college with a great teacher who is teaching us to solder in these steps:

Tack (not on joints)
Flat solder (to fill in between glass)
Turn over piece then flat solder
Bead solder on that side
Turn piece back over and do final bead

Based on your information below, would it be a good idea to do the flat soldering with 50/50 then do the bead with 60/40 capitalizing on the differences of the two?



I would say yes.  Two reasons
  - less risk of melting through if you are moving briskly along the bead
  - cheaper solder (at least in the UK) so you money goes further.

If however you are going slow on soldering your beads, the 50/50 will absorb enough of the heat from the bead to melt, leaving you in a worse position than before.   When soldering slowly, it could be argued that you should use the solder which solidifies as quickly as possible after melting.

[Elizabeth]

to be honest I didn't even know one could buy 40/60.  Whodathunk..........Will have to pay more attention next time I go to my suppliers I guess.  I used to use 63/37 till it got too expensive now I use 60/40 too.

Gotta be honest - never seen or even heard of anything but 60/40 in my part of the world!   Not saying that it's not available here at all - just never seen or heard of it myself.  Guess you don't miss what you've never had.