First Lead Piece - HELP!

[Vic Rothman]

Rebecca, that is exactly what I did. I still got too much solder. A cooler iron did better, but still not great. I think I need to play with the temperature.

Rebecca, that is exactly what I did. I still got too much solder. A cooler iron did better, but still not great. I think I need to play with the temperature.

You need to be careful with a "cool" iron. The solder needs to ,fully melt as does the lead ( a very small amount). If the iron is too cool you will get a cold solder joint that will not hold well

[Audrey]

After scraping project #1 because of the globs of solder, I did project #2 and though the soldering was less lumpy, it still is not flat and smooth like the tutoral I was using. At first the iron was too hot and burned the lead in one place. I got it cool enough that it didn't burn and used as little solder as possible, but it still came out poorly. Here are photos of it with light behind it and lying down so you can see the solder. It is approx. 6" X 13"

[Anne]

You know Audrey, for a first lead project it looks just fine.  Aren't we always our own worst critics? Remember when you first started glass and you were learning to solder - it took a while to get the hang of it right? You'll get better and better at it as time goes on.  You had a tough time with this first project, don't let it keep you from trying again.  It looks great hanging with the light coming through, and the glass choices are really nice.  If you don't point out what you think are the blemishes 95% of people won't notice. I think you did a good job - you had to learn it without hands on help - a major project doing it that way.  Bravo!!

[Kev]

I agree with Anne 100%. I think you did a great job on it...and remember...this is only your second attempt. No one is perfect at anything new. Go easy on yourself..you deserve the credit for trying to begin with, and for a job well done...kudos to you Audrey!

[Graham]

Patience, glasshopper!
These things come with time.

[ct4mom]

Audrey, I think it looks great. I hope mine looks as well as yours. Anne is right about us being are worst critic, and practice makes perfect.BTW I love the pattern and the glass.

 

[Audrey]

Thanks evewryone for the encouragement. I do believe the soldering looks better on the computer than in real life, but you don't notice it when it is in the window and I do think It is pretty. I didn't succeed in getting the liquid layer on top of the cement stired into it well, as the cement was too hard to stir, yet not too hard to use. Is there a trick to mixing it without slopping it all over the place? I ruined a good sweater. (I know, wear an apron - I had no idea what what I was opening would consist of).
   I will definately do more lead, but right now I have started a foil project to take a breather. I know the border will need reinforcement (my first time again) so I will have to post a photo for help again.

[Alan]

Looks WAY better than my first lead piece

[PiscesGlass]

Sorry Vic, you are correct, I should have specified which size.  Not the chisel tipped and Not the ultra fine..just your run of the mill FINE POINT sharpie.  May not work for some, but usually I don't have to recut anything, maybe adjust with the use of a grinder on occasion..

My apologies..De

[Vic Rothman]

I can't blow the photo big enough, but I think that the solder was NOT hot enough. It looks like "cold" solder joints. The solder needs to flow over the lead. Maybe you need to wire brush the lead before you solder. How old is the lead?Additionally you need to solder the joint so that the heart of the lead gets covered. In some areas it looks like you just barely got solder on the lead.

[Rebecca]

I told her to come over here and I'd show her how.

Rebecca

[PiscesGlass]

I can't blow the photo big enough, but I think that the solder was NOT hot enough. It looks like "cold" solder joints. The solder needs to flow over the lead. Maybe you need to wire brush the lead before you solder. How old is the lead?Additionally you need to solder the joint so that the heart of the lead gets covered. In some areas it looks like you just barely got solder on the lead.

I was going to mention the wire brushing at the joints also, as I learned to do it that way...lead oxides fairly quickly and wire brushing it brings it back to its non-oxidized state...and it doesn't matter whether you use flux sparingly on lead..you're only going to be soldering the joints. 
Also your iron needs to be hot enough to melt the solder, but not so hot as to melt the lead.  But you do need to leave the iron on the joint long enough to melt the solder down through the joint..it conforms better to the lead and will give you less of a solder glob.  So the advice given about practicing on some small pieces is excellent advice.  When you can get the solder to run into the joint then you've got it! 
Good for you for tackling this by yourself via tutorial!  I'm impressed that you decided to do this panel!

De

[Graham]

[

I was going to mention the wire brushing at the joints also, as I learned to do it that way...lead oxides fairly quickly and wire brushing it brings it back to its non-oxidized state...and it doesn't matter whether you use flux sparingly on lead..you're only going to be soldering the joints. 

I'm not sure why, but scraping lead works much better than wire brushing.

Also your iron needs to be hot enough to melt the solder, but not so hot as to melt the lead.  But you do need to leave the iron on the joint long enough to melt the solder down through the joint..it conforms better to the lead and will give you less of a solder glob.  So the advice given about practicing on some small pieces is excellent advice.  When you can get the solder to run into the joint then you've got it! 
Good for you for tackling this by yourself via tutorial!  I'm impressed that you decided to do this panel!

Actually, I think the lead has to melt a tad before a good joint can be formed, or at least reach a temperature slightly higher than the melting point of the solder. That's why temp and timing are vital. It has to just melt, a tiny bit.

[PiscesGlass]

[

I was going to mention the wire brushing at the joints also, as I learned to do it that way...lead oxides fairly quickly and wire brushing it brings it back to its non-oxidized state...and it doesn't matter whether you use flux sparingly on lead..you're only going to be soldering the joints. 

I'm not sure why, but scraping lead works much better than wire brushing.

Also your iron needs to be hot enough to melt the solder, but not so hot as to melt the lead.  But you do need to leave the iron on the joint long enough to melt the solder down through the joint..it conforms better to the lead and will give you less of a solder glob.  So the advice given about practicing on some small pieces is excellent advice.  When you can get the solder to run into the joint then you've got it! 
Good for you for tackling this by yourself via tutorial!  I'm impressed that you decided to do this panel!

Actually, I think the lead has to melt a tad before a good joint can be formed, or at least reach a temperature slightly higher than the melting point of the solder. That's why temp and timing are vital. It has to just melt, a tiny bit.

I seem to recall that we've had the scraping discussion before..I'll try that the next time I do a leaded piece!  Thanks for the reminder!  Good points.

[Rebecca]

I didn't succeed in getting the liquid layer on top of the cement stired into it well, as the cement was too hard to stir, yet not too hard to use. Is there a trick to mixing it without slopping it all over the place? I ruined a good sweater. (I know, wear an apron - I had no idea what what I was opening would consist of).

What kind of putty were you using?  It sounds like Inland.  YUCK!  When you come here, I'll show you some good putty, too.

Rebecca

[Vic Rothman]

"I'm not sure why, but scraping lead works much better than wire brushing."

When working with very heavy oxidation and dirt scraping IS the way to go (ie. tring to solder old lead for repairs). Wire brushing this kind of crude only pushes into the lead and makes the soldering difficult. So it's best to remove it be scraping.

However, on relatively new lead, wire brushing is faster and adequate

[Audrey]

I had forgotten about the wire brush that was sold me for that purpose. What do you use to scrape bsides a wire brush?  I thought the iron was just under the lead melting temperature, but maybe there is a fine area between too hot and too cool that I am missing. I was trying to use as little solder as possible as that what what was suggested to me at my last failed attempt. Yes, it is the Inland cement system. I bought it before I read not to use a product that said "cement". Nasty stuff.

Rebecca- I would love to come but I have bad nerve problems and panic attack issues so I don't go anywhere by myself. I asked my husband to bring me but he says it would take a couple hours each way and was too far. Our only days off are Sunday and Monday.

[Graham]

I had forgotten about the wire brush that was sold me for that purpose. What do you use to scrape bsides a wire brush?  I thought the iron was just under the lead melting temperature, but maybe there is a fine area between too hot and too cool that I am missing. I was trying to use as little solder as possible as that what what was suggested to me at my last failed attempt. Yes, it is the Inland cement system. I bought it before I read not to use a product that said "cement". Nasty stuff.

Rebecca- I would love to come but I have bad nerve problems and panic attack issues so I don't go anywhere by myself. I asked my husband to bring me but he says it would take a couple hours each way and was too far. Our only days off are Sunday and Monday.

I scrape with my lead knife, or a hobby (Xacto) knife.

The word "cement" isn't a bad thing. It's the inclusion in the ingredients of Portland cement that's a no-no. Portland cement is good for making the ingredients of concrete stick together, but it's on Vic's sh** list of ingredients for stained glass glazing cement or putty.
Even the purist's whiting and linseed oil is a "cement".

I don't know what the Inland Ingredients are - maybe OK, BUT it's crappy to work with and store. Mixing it requires Arnold Schwarzenegger wrists and forearms,

[Vic Rothman]

Inland cement has plaster of Paris and a lot of turps. Both not good

[Rebecca]

A Sunday and/or Monday can be arranged!  Let me talk to him; you NEED to come see me.

Rebecca