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TodB
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« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2009, 10:53:23 AM » |
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Audrey:
This is a charming first lead piece and it will look lovely when finished. Further, you will have learned quite a bit about the new medium.
I would not worry about reinforcing this panel. It has no worrisome hinges and is small enough to be quite sturdy if made well.
Maybe you would be good enough to tell us what sizes of lead the tutorial is suggesting and if this pattern is theirs or if you found it elsewhere or created it yourself?
Good luck and don't forget to return with questions. Best - Tod
Preacice, practice, practice!
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Kev
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« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2009, 11:31:21 AM » |
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Oh I like that pattern Audrey!
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Audrey
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« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2009, 11:54:51 AM » |
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Tod, The tutoral said any size lead. All I have is 7/32 in H and 1/4 in U for the border. I'm not going to be picky on this piece as it is my learnin g piece and I am not expecting too much from it. I am even picking most of my glass from scraps. The pattern was a free one from http://www.thewhitehousesgb.com/stainedglasspatterns.html |
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ct4mom
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« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2009, 01:05:09 PM » |
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Aurdey, good luck . Im starting mine too and that what Im using too, but I am going to use zinc for the border.
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Scooch
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« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2009, 02:46:08 PM » |
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Nice design for a first lead piece. You do not need to reinforce this piece. It will seem kind of flimsy at first but it is amazing how much sturdier it becomes once you cement it. Good luck and have fun.
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Vic Rothman
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« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2009, 05:06:38 PM » |
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Okay. I am trying the lead which I know nothing about, but am trying to follow an on line tutoral. This piece will be about 12.5" X 8.25" Do I need to use restrip for a small piece like that, and if so, how do you do it with lead, which the tutoral said I can do? I have never even used it with foil as I just got some in for the first time after learning about it.  what is the tutorial link? |
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Vic Rothman
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« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2009, 09:05:02 PM » |
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not a bad tutorial. Although she has 2 vertical hinges in the example that could have been easily fixed by cutting/running the lead differently |
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Vic Rothman
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« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2009, 04:40:21 PM » |
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Ran into an issue. When one piece of lead angles to meet another piece the pattern piece does not properly fit and I have been having to readjust the shape to fit where one channel runs into another as in the forefront of this photo. Apparently there is some trick to this.??????  First you need to cut a long tapper in the lead that you are fitting. Then take your dikes and cut a small amount of the heart out of the long taper. The glass should now fit |
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Audrey
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« Reply #11 on: March 31, 2009, 05:14:34 PM » |
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I'll try that. Thanks.
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ct4mom
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« Reply #13 on: March 31, 2009, 05:59:48 PM » |
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Audrey I so glad you are doing your first too between yours and mine we should have all problems covered.
I havent had a problem like yours yet but I dont understand what Viv is saying either maybe a drawing would help
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Anne
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« Reply #14 on: March 31, 2009, 06:01:10 PM » |
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you want the lead to come together like a Y Audrey. Does that make sense?
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Audrey
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« Reply #15 on: March 31, 2009, 06:52:30 PM » |
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Anne, it makes sense. I can get a "Y" but I just am having a hard time getting the glass to fit in as there is not a smooth flow from the heart of one piece of lead to the next. It is like a need to add a hump to the class to fit in the bend of the Y.
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Vic Rothman
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« Reply #16 on: March 31, 2009, 06:59:13 PM » |
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Maybe I am misunderstanding how long the taper should be or where it should start, but I have experimented and still can't figure it out.  This is the tutorial that you are using. Go to the section headed "Cutting lead at an angle with lead dykes:" This is what I meant by cutting a tapper (same as an angle) but longer an to a sharper point. The sharper the point the smoother the transition from 1 lead to the other will look. The top and the bottom of the came is called a leaf or flange. The center part of the came is called the heart. The heart on the tapered came is preventing your glass from going in properly. So take your dikes and cut out a bit of the heart, thus leaving just to top and bottom flange. Cut small amounts out at a time, keep trying the glass for fit. |
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« Last Edit: March 31, 2009, 07:05:23 PM by Vic »
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Vic Rothman
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« Reply #17 on: March 31, 2009, 07:06:40 PM » |
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Audrey I so glad you are doing your first too between yours and mine we should have all problems covered.
I havent had a problem like yours yet but I dont understand what Viv is saying either maybe a drawing would help
"I dont understand what Viv is saying " What VIC is saying |
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Audrey
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« Reply #18 on: April 01, 2009, 07:40:56 AM » |
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Vic, I had been following that tutoral, and I can get the faces of the lead to come together well and have the sharp point, but I tried cutting out some of the heart to get a smooth transition between the pieces of lead and can not get them to meet up.
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Vic Rothman
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« Reply #19 on: April 01, 2009, 08:16:26 AM » |
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Vic, I had been following that tutoral, and I can get the faces of the lead to come together well and have the sharp point, but I tried cutting out some of the heart to get a smooth transition between the pieces of lead and can not get them to meet up.
I thought the glass was not fitting right. That's why I suggested to cut out the heart. If the lead is not lining up, than the angle that you cut is not right |
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