slightly too small glass in lead came project

[Sue in NC]

I am working on my first lead came project. One piece of glass is slightly too small. I can get my fingernail between it and and the edge of the lead came. The glass store is out of this kind of glass. This project is for a class and the instructor advised me to keep going, that puttying the glass would take care of the gap.  Maybe the gap won't be noticeable, and since the piece will not be exposed to the weather, it will be all right. If it was going to be exposed to the weather,  a little gap would still be a problem, wouldn't it?  Even on this piece, would I be better off to stick some wire or small pieces of came into the gap and solder over them?  I realize that would stop the putty from getting under the came in that area. 

Sue

[Kev]

That's a great question Sue. I have done some lead, but not an expert at it. There are those here though that have a lot of experience in lead work and will point you in the right direction. I'll be interested in hearing their thoughts as well. Are you able to post a pic of the area in question?

[EZPuzzler]

Is it possible to adjust the came a little.  You might be able to move it over enough to close the gap, without creating another gap on the other side.  A fingernail width is not much and the glass on the other side may be wide enough to stay within the came leaf if you can wiggle the came over a bit. This will not work if you need the came line to be straight.

[TodB]

Sue:
EZPuzzler's suggestion is the simplest solution. Since this is a practice panel, you can try anything you hear about or can think of and see how it works. Then, try to bo better next time. No big deal. Get a discussion going in class. There are many tricks of the trade & I'm sure you'll think of lots!

In general, I believe that you always want to have lead overlap glass & not try to fill gaps with unsupported putty. I also believe that it's OK to add some  lead to the the came flange at times (there are exceptions), but not to block the putty from getting under the leads & beside the glass.

Enjoy the learning & please come back to add to this discussion. - Tod

[Sue in NC]

It is a little embarassing to show this piece since it has so many flaws.

If you look just to the left of the short piece of came between the top small diamond and the center oval, that is where the gap occurs. This photo does not show it very well, even magnified, but when you are looking at the actual panel, light comes through the gap. The panel is currently tack soldered on one side only. In the next class we will putty it using Dap33 that has been mixed with linseed oil, so I have to finish soldering it at home.

I have already learned some things from this practice piece.
*While it is better to cut came too short rather than too long, it is still a whole lot better to cut it just right!
*Moving a stretched piece of lead without putting even a small bend in it is very hard, and even the tiniest of bends show up when incorporated into your piece.
*Buy a lot more glass than you think you need if it is a kind of glass you are not used to cutting.
*50/50 solder really does handle differently than 60/40. Maybe it is better to use 60/40 while learning lead came even if 50/50 does take up the color of the came better when you putty the piece.

Sue

[Kev]

Suggestion.....lay a piece of popcicle stick or something the solder will not adhere to, under the edge of the existing lead came then solder along the edge to widen the came. Remove the stick or object used and then go ahead and putty.

[Sue in NC]

Great idea!  I am going to give that a try. Maybe a bit of aluminum foil would do the trick? Think I read somewhere that solder does not stick to aluminum.  Guess I better check before I try.

Sue

[Kev]

Just make sure there is a small space left to be able to get the putty into. You would be correct..it does not stick to aluminum.

[JudyK]

Slip a piece of tin can lid under the lead came over the glass. This will save you space for putty. Then add your tiny bit of lip. The widend lead came will be noticable but better than light coming through, I think. Maybe just add the lead to the back.

[Rebecca]

I just remembered what you said about 50/50 taking the color of the came better.  I've never heard this.  I have heard that 50/50 makes a flatter joint - which is what you want.  I have also heard that it's better to use 60/40 with came because it has a lower melting point.  I think there are fine stained glass workers who use both/either.  I don't think it's very important which you use; they both work.  Use whichever works better for you.

Rebecca

[Ozzieglassie]

I agree with Rebecca on 50/50 (or even 40/60) "giving a flatter joint and this is what you want"...because when the joint is higher or beaded up as in foil, it doesn't flex as the window flexes in change of temperatues, wind etc and you will always get cracking around it. 60/40 itself, being a higher tin content, also will not flex and will, in time cause cracking around the joint.
When I have had students with the dreaded Gap Problem (lol) I cut a piece of lead came in half, ie keep a bit of the heart in place to keep it up off the glass and at the same height as the other lead and then trim it down length wise to just the thickness needed to cover the gap ie you end up with a skinny piece of lead came the length of the piece of glass. Then flux and solder into place along the full length of the problem area. Yes, it will be wider than the other leads but you really hardly notice it and the window is waterproof, the glass won't fall out over time. Do the false leading on both sides of the window.
The other alternative is to do an in situ repair/replacement of that piece of glass. I would never let anyone leave a piece of glass like that in a window "unfixed"!! lol