Stained Glass Plating

[Tanya]

I hope this is in the correct category.

I want to learn some glass plating techniques and was considering ordering a book/pattern - possibly Robert Oddy or Barry Masser - but don't know which would be more informative - anyone have opinions?

[Kev]

I've never personally tried it, though a few here have during the Spring into Summer  contest we previously had. I did buy a book some time about it, but have not actually tried it. I love the effects it can give, and I think it can certainly set you work apart from others using that technique.

The book I bought was by Barry Masser. I've seen some of Robert's work as we. They both do awesome stuff.

[JoanFrances]

by all means purchase the books.  It is fun to do, but practice before you do a big piece, because you have to seal the edges well if you don't want water stains between the layers

[Rebecca]

I don't think Vic would mind my posting this, he gave me permission to post it before.  Vic, if you mind hollar.

Plating 101
by Vic Rothman

First build the window (base layer). Plates can go on the front or back (ie. Tiffany, LaFarge). They can be the same size and shape as the piece below, or can cover many pieces, or a part of a piece.

FOIL; do not bead where the plates are going to go, just tin. The easiest way to attach the plate is to wrap the plate in foil and tin. Place on top of base window and solder WITHOUT any flux. Be careful not to let the solder get between the plates. You can also use wide foil and foil 2 pieces of glass together and solder on the base window.

LEAD: do not putty where the plates are going. When the putty dries out dust will collect between the plates. You can wrap plates in lead and solder to base. Tin the lead first then solder WITHOUT flux. You can use "high" heart lead and put 2 pieces of glass together. If can even lead a second window on top of the base if you want. To do this use a smaller "H" lead then the lead below and tack solder the interior leads to the base, and fully solder the perimeter lead to the base. Lightly putty the plate lead with a dry putty, do not push it under the lead too hard.

Robert Oddy said to vent the plates to prevent moisture. I have restored many Tiffany, LaFarge and other 100 year old plated windows and never seen moisture between the plates. I have a foiled window with plates that I made 20 years ago that has lived it's entire life in a bathroom, no moisture. Seal the plates all around. If you leave spaces dirt and moisture WILL get in. As Oddy also said, if you use many plates you will add weight to the window that may cause problems if not properly rebared.

Tony Banfield posted a good one too, but I don't remember where.

Rebecca

[Kev]

Thanks Vic and Rebecca for posting that info. It's good to have it as a reference source here.

[Tina]

Barry Masser's books have been invaluable resources to me when a design calls for plating.  He goes into great detail to lead you step-by-step through the plating process, fully illustrated, from the selection of pattern and glass to the final window.  The techniques used to create the impression of depth and dimension make a panel jump to life when you hold it up to the light.  His books are worth every penny! 

[Tanya]

Thanks so much for the great information!  I ordered Masser's book and can't wait to get started.  I'm sure y'all could help along the way if I run into any problems.  I'll keep you updated on my progress.

A question for Rebecca - Vic's instructions say not to flux when soldering the plates together - how will the solder "stick" without flux?

[Rebecca]

The solder on the plate will stick to the solder on the panel without flux, it will just look lumpy.  After I get the plate completely sealed, I go back and put a tiny amount of flux and "pretty it up."  But don't immerse it to clean it if it is copper foil.  If the water pressure outside is greater than the air pressure inside, you can get a little seepage.

Rebecca