How to test for Compatability.

[Amber]

I just placed a small glass order with a company in Toronto that I've only ever ordered a mold from, gotta say they've were so awesome and sent me 5 squares of glass for free *wow*!! That's on top of a small discount too and it really wasn't a big order at all, it was only $140 bucks before tax and shipping so that much free glass is kinda crazy *lol!
Because they were so good to me I wanted to come here first about the next part, I don't want to look silly after they were so nice :). I had ordered 6 squares (12"by12") of 100SFS and when I opened it up it left me a tad confused. It looks like clear Artique??? One of the pieces does have the system96 sticker but no other stickers or item number and the receipt only says clear glass for these items......
Does clear fusing glass come in this texture??? Is it new???




Updated to add,
I just called the store and it's all good *yay*. They had gotten an order in and it was artique finished from the supplier but it is System 96!! I'm even more excited to try it now *LOL. I gotta give a lot of thanks to Fantasy In Glass because they spent -a lot- of time helping me out, I was emailing back and forth with them quite a few times before I even placed and order. That and even with a small order to have gotten so much free stuff was surprising and really nice! Great people there!

[Becki]

No it shouldn't be textured. 

[Alan]

From what I see on Spectrum's site - no texture for 100SFS - here is the link: http://www.spectrumglass.com/stained-glass/products/product-results.asp?col=6&fam=&cat=&tex=

[Amber]

That's what I thought, I even checked the 'what's new' section and didn't see anything like that............ makes me wonder how the system96 sticker got on this glass *L. Now that I know it's not something that I should know exists I'll call them when they open to check it out.
Thanks Alan!

edit to add thanks to Becki too, I think I scrolled down too fast and missed your answer the first time *L.

[Glassic]

I see nothing new either, Spectrum sometimes email if there is something new. Maybe an email to Spectrum will clear it up, scuse the pun, they are very helpful.
Alan you are on the wrong page
http://www.system96.com/GlassTables/System96Glass.html

[Ian]

Hi Amber
What you should do is a test piece. On a piece of spectrum96 place a small piece of the "mystery glass" and full fuse. Then check with a stressometer.
These are available from Delphi and consist of a light source and 2 pieces of polaroid film. One piece of film is placed over the light and the fused test piece is placed on top of it and then you look through the second piece of film and turn it until you can see the fused piece through it. If it is compatable you won't see any halo or what looks like lightning streaks emanating from the edges of the small test piece. I have found that a stressometer is a must have tool and I don't think they are too expensive.
Regards
Ian 

[Judy K]

My clear Spectrum96 is not flat like float glass, but it does not look like Antique either. I too would test the glass. If you full fuse a square inch of the glass to known clear fusible and it divits you don't even need to use the polaroid flim. I bought a 2'x3' piece of polaroid flim on line years ago and cut it in half. Then I put it over my light table. It works the same as Ian discribed, and is a valuable tool.

Calling Spectrum or emailing them a photo of the glass is a great idea. They do experiment now and then

[Kev]

Polaroid film..go figure.

[Rebecca]

Some sunglasses are polarized, too.  You get two lenses with a pair of sunglasses, one to go under the glass and one to go over it.  And it doesn't matter if they are old, scratched sunglasses!

Rebecca

[Kev]

Now that is a great hint Rebecca!!!!!!!

How about posting that in the hint section...hint hint...lol

[Rebecca]

Now that is a great hint Rebecca!!!!!!!

How about posting that in the hint section...hint hint...lol

Okay, I added Ian's and Judy's also.  I hope they don't mind.

Rebecca

[Stephen Richard]

Hi Amber
What you should do is a test piece. On a piece of spectrum96 place a small piece of the "mystery glass" and full fuse. Then check with a stressometer.
These are available from Delphi and consist of a light source and 2 pieces of polaroid film. One piece of film is placed over the light and the fused test piece is placed on top of it and then you look through the second piece of film and turn it until you can see the fused piece through it. If it is compatable you won't see any halo or what looks like lightning streaks emanating from the edges of the small test piece. I have found that a stressometer is a must have tool and I don't think they are too expensive.
Regards
Ian 

I'm not sure I am understanding you correctly.  I orient my polarised sheets (one below and the other above as you suggest) so that the least amount of light shows through.  That may be what you are saying.  It is only in this orientation that you get a full sense of the amount of stress.  Also look at the bullseye technical note:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/techbook/annealing/
This is a very good video and explanation of the acceptable degrees of stress.

There is one more element to a full stress test.  The stress of inadequate annealing looks the same as the stress of incompatiblity.  So in your same firing as the compatibility test you need to place two pieces of the same glass - one on top of the other - and check it for stress.  If you have stress in the two pieces from the same sheet of glass, you know you have annealing stress and need to re-fire with longer soaks and annealing cools, until the two pieces of the same glass have no/or minimal visible stress.  Then you can check the pieces of unknown glass that have been refired with the annealing test pieces to see if there is incompatibility stress.  If you don't do this you will never really know which kind of stress you have in your test piece.

[Kev]

Good info Stephen!

[Stephen Richard]

And, of course, I have a tip on the subject:
http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/08/compatibility-tests.html
Steve

[Rebecca]

I'm not sure I am understanding you correctly.  I orient my polarised sheets (one below and the other above as you suggest) so that the least amount of light shows through.  That may be what you are saying.  It is only in this orientation that you get a full sense of the amount of stress.  Also look at the bullseye technical note:
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/techbook/annealing/
This is a very good video and explanation of the acceptable degrees of stress.

There is one more element to a full stress test.  The stress of inadequate annealing looks the same as the stress of incompatiblity.  So in your same firing as the compatibility test you need to place two pieces of the same glass - one on top of the other - and check it for stress.  If you have stress in the two pieces from the same sheet of glass, you know you have annealing stress and need to re-fire with longer soaks and annealing cools, until the two pieces of the same glass have no/or minimal visible stress.  Then you can check the pieces of unknown glass that have been refired with the annealing test pieces to see if there is incompatibility stress.  If you don't do this you will never really know which kind of stress you have in your test piece.

Stephen, may I add your post to the tips I just started?

Rebecca

[Kev]

I bookmarked your blog as a reference.

[Stephen Richard]

"Stephen, may I add your post to the tips I just started?

Rebecca "

Sure.  No problem.
 

 

[Stephen Richard]

I bookmarked your blog as a reference.

I hope it will provide some useful information.
steve

[Kev]

I'm sure it will. Always nice to have references.

[Rebecca]

"Stephen, may I add your post to the tips I just started?

Rebecca "

Sure.  No problem.
 

 

Thank you, Stephen.  I believe we are a little nutty about organization here, but adding your information to the "tips" will help make sure we don't have incomplete information there since the tips will stay at the top of the posts.

Rebecca