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Author Topic: Sling/harness for hanging round/oval panels  (Read 2009 times)
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Vic Rothman
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« Reply #40 on: May 01, 2010, 08:12:26 PM »
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Tied on rebar, called "saddle bars" are STRICLY for lateral support against wind load. They DO NOT actually keep the window flat like fins or soldered on flat bars.
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nansea121
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« Reply #41 on: May 02, 2010, 03:38:32 AM »
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Tie wires are used ONLY in windows that are installed in some type of frame. The bar ends need to be drilled into the framing. This is not suitable for a free hanging piece that is not in a wood frame. A much better choice for free hanging panels would be either soldered on flat rebar or preferably fins as suggested.

I knew about the wooden frame part and wondered about the zinc frame. I thought the bar ends could be soldered to either side of the zinc frame and then could be wire tied at the cross joints in the center of the panel.

Thanks Vic.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2010, 03:46:28 AM by nansea121 » Logged
Vic Rothman
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« Reply #42 on: May 02, 2010, 09:47:00 AM »
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Tie wires are used ONLY in windows that are installed in some type of frame. The bar ends need to be drilled into the framing. This is not suitable for a free hanging piece that is not in a wood frame. A much better choice for free hanging panels would be either soldered on flat rebar or preferably fins as suggested.

I knew about the wooden frame part and wondered about the zinc frame. I thought the bar ends could be soldered to either side of the zinc frame and then could be wire tied at the cross joints in the center of the panel.

Thanks Vic.

The real issue here is that we are dealing with a free hanging window. No air pressure  to deal with. So all that is needed is something to stiffen up potential weak (hinge) areas.  Tie wire/saddle bars is not the way to go. You need soldered on support
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nansea121
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« Reply #43 on: May 02, 2010, 11:49:45 AM »
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The real issue here is that we are dealing with a free hanging window. No air pressure  to deal with. So all that is needed is something to stiffen up potential weak (hinge) areas.  Tie wire/saddle bars is not the way to go. You need soldered on support

Thanks for that info! I appriciate learning the reasons why. I'll tuck that into my memory banks:) grin
« Last Edit: May 02, 2010, 11:52:57 AM by nansea121 » Logged
JoanFrances
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« Reply #44 on: May 02, 2010, 12:44:17 PM »
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Thanks Vic.  It is wonderful that we can come here and get great advise and know that it is based on sound reasoning.  

I hope that this thread stays easy to find for future reference.  Sometimes things get buried and when you try to find them later on it is difficult.

I am now in the midist of laying out my sail boat commission panel.  This one will be free hanging also.  

There will be a 2" border around the panel, and I have offset the intersecting cut lines so the do not go straight to the edge (see the cartoon).  Will that take care of the hinge potentional, and if not, how would I do the re-inforcement for the border.  It will be done in foil method.  Thanks
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Vic Rothman
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« Reply #45 on: May 02, 2010, 01:20:05 PM »
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Depending on how you break up the border pieces, you can run  some restrip between the glass so that it runs from the wave cut  lines and the mast cut line into the border cut lines.

The important thing to remember is, free hanging panels are not subjected to all the conditions as installed windows. So often times NO additional support is needed.

I think I'd be more concerned about the big "sky" piece. Maybe a couple of clouds are needed to tie that piece to the border. Also, just an aesthetic, try lowering the horizon a bit. Designs tend to look better when not visually cut in half
« Last Edit: May 02, 2010, 01:23:20 PM by Vic Rothman » Logged
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« Reply #46 on: May 02, 2010, 01:27:02 PM »
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Thanks Vic.  I had drawn a cloud in and didn't like it so I removed it again.  Will do one again.  Would it be adviseable to cut the cloud into the sun also?  I had seen a post (way back) where you had commented about a circle in the middle of a panel, but don't remember all the details of the post. 

Thanks again. 
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Graham
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« Reply #47 on: May 02, 2010, 05:36:18 PM »
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Oh man! I'm coming in very late on this one. I noted that Vic, at one point wondered if reinforcing is really necessary on this sort of a project.

I'm not at all sure if it's needed.

The one thing I would like to remind folk about is that reinforcing should be considered before construction. It should be part of the design phase.

Before one moves on from design to assembly, one should stand back and say "Are there weak spots that might need a little help?" And if the answer is yes - make the necessary decisions.

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Kev
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« Reply #48 on: May 02, 2010, 05:37:23 PM »
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Good point Graham.
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Stephen Richard
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« Reply #49 on: December 17, 2010, 03:47:16 PM »
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This is my method.
http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/03/hanging-panels-perimeter-wire.html
Although it is demonstrated on a rectangular piece, the principles work on all relatively regular shapes.
steve
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Kev
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« Reply #50 on: December 17, 2010, 04:28:16 PM »
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Using H came on the perimeter of a square or rectangle, and using this method, at the corner do you cut the heart out of one piece to allow the wire to wrap around the corner inside the H came?
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Stephen Richard
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« Reply #51 on: December 17, 2010, 05:37:12 PM »
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I snip the heart from the leaves and bend it to touch the other heart.  That assumes that I have not mitered the corners - which I sometimes do, but rarely.
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Kev
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« Reply #52 on: December 17, 2010, 05:38:59 PM »
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Thanks for that extra tidbit of info...I'll be using this method in the future, and thanks for the link..great info.
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ct4mom
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« Reply #53 on: December 17, 2010, 05:57:38 PM »
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Great info Stephan and I love to see what is going on. Great pics too! THANKS
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JoanFrances
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« Reply #54 on: December 18, 2010, 10:19:12 AM »
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thank you for the link.  That is about what I did, except I used twisted wire instead of closing the came.  I also braided and solder the wire into itself to create the loop, but I do like the link method better.  Looks a lot quicker
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