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Author Topic: German, Hand rolled Glass  (Read 193 times)
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Shereen
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« on: January 25, 2010, 09:35:35 PM »
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I hope this is acceptable, for a new member to start a topic , here goes.
I received quite a bit of German hand-rolled glass that has a texture like catspaw and is about 16x 28 in length.   It does not lay flat and I have it in  8 colors.    I am wondering about cutting this and fusing it/slumping in a bowl.   Perhaps, cutting in 5inch strips and  making a round disk then fusing it with a clear glass before slumping it.     Does anyone know how I would go about testing it? What I mean is, would I need to test each piece?   If I tested the blue with the beige and it was alright  (HOW would I know??) would I need to test EACH peice of blue/beige?    Since it's all made by the same man?      here is a photo of part of it.    Thank you! S
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Vic Rothman
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« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2010, 10:02:04 PM »
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http://74.125.113.132/search?q=cache:3kRgJXByc6YJ:www.warmglass.com/Compatibility_testing.htm+how+to+test+glass+compatibility&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
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Judy K
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« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2010, 01:54:42 AM »
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There is so much to learn at warmglass.com and warmtips.com .

It looks to me like you have been given a real treasure of unique glass. I would use it in your painted lead windows. You said you bought your kiln to learn to paint on glass. Many of the old gorgeous painted windows were done on antique glass.

You can fuse any glass to itself without having to test it. So if you want to take one sheet, cut some of it up, and contour fuse it to itself for texture, you could do that without any fuss. But otherwise you will have to test any glass you want to fuse to another piece of glass.

We are soooo blessed right now to live in a time when glass factories are doing the testing for you and labling it compatible. The other thing nice about using tested compatible glass is they have the chemical recipe to a point where the glass resists divitrifying . It can still happen, but not very often.

Before you fuse a lot of your amazing hand made glass, test a little of it and see how it acts in the kiln. If it turns into a crusty mess or changes color you might be better off not heating it up that hot. The paint temperatures of around 1100 to 1200F usually don't mess with your glass changing. If it comes out shiny and the same color it might be worth the time to  test the compatibilities and use it for fusing.
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