Who uses Car wax on their glass

[Lou Ann]

I know someone out there uses car wash instead of the polish they sell through the stained glass suppliers because I remember reading about it...

So, if you use car wax, what type do you use? (please be as specific as possible)

I'm tired of having to go back and get the extra white residue that clarity leaves behind -- I have about 140 items to touch up before my show on Saturday and I'm not looking forward to it at all....

LA

[AglassAct]

I have always used the hard shell Turtle wax that comes in a bottle. I have never had a white crud problem.

Deb in Ohio

[Lou Ann]

Thanks Deb...

We have 3 auto parts stores in town and one of them has to have it!!!

[nansea121]

Some also suggest Mother's Car Wax which you can get it at Walmart.
 
For what it's worth, I only use regular 'ol Pledge furniture polish. Shake the can very well before each use. Spray both sides and let dry for 20 minutes - an hour, or even over night. I use 2 buffing cloths to bring up nice shiny solder black patina lines. You must make sure to shake the can well.

Good luck with your show!

[ct4mom]

Im a pledge user too and no residue.

[Barbara]

Yes I use Pledge also. so much easier on the polishing up  part.

[Lady Helen]

When I first started reading up on polishing stained glass
I kept reading that the wax must have carnauba in it.
(no explanation was given of "why" this ingredient was so important,
perhaps someone else knows the answer and can enlighten us all)

So I went with:
"Simoniz
Premium Paste Wax with Pure Carnauba
for the ultimate shine & protection"

Next time I have 2 pieces to polish
I will try doing one with Pledge just
to see if I can spot any difference.

[nansea121]

Ahhh, I remember hearing about carnauba as an ingredient in wax Helen.
That's probably why I read that Mother's Car Wax was suppose to be good. Here's a link about that product.

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05701-05500.html

One of my teachers always used Pledge wax and the only problems I've ever experienmced with it was if I didn't shake the can well prior to using it, but barring that, I found it really give a nice high gloss to patina solder beads.
I know I've seen Mothers at Walmart in the states in the automotive section, so I might give that a try. I have some Hard Shell Turtle wax here and I don't see any reference to Carnauba as being an ingredient to their wax. I've never tried that before either, but I agree with Helen, it would be interesting to try out those products as well.

And what the devil is carnauba anyway? So I looked it up.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnauba They even use it to coat candy, lol.

"Carnauba wax can produce a glossy finish and as such is used in automobile waxes, shoe polishes, food products such as sweets, instrument polishes, and floor and furniture waxes and polishes, especially when mixed with beeswax and with turpentine. It is used as a coating on dental floss. Use for paper coatings is the most common application in the United States. It is the main ingredient in surfboard wax, combined with coconut oil."

[Lou Ann]

thanks everyone!!

[Wayne]

Remember there are two types of auto wax being sold.  One step wax contains a cleaner which is an abrasive and used on cars to remove the oxidized paint.  Two step involves a cleaner and a pure wax to be applied separately.  That system should be used on new cars that are well maintained.  Pure waxes are the best to use on panels and shades (if you are going to use a wax) because they do not wear the patina off.   A lot of people use Turtle wax with a cleaner and it works well for them.  BTW, one step waxes are easier to remove most of the time.

The question is do you really want to do this much work for a panel?  Pledge works really well and will not last as long but will save lots of time.  I tested both of them in the 90's  and found the wax lasted a couple years longer than the Pledge but too much longer to apply and remove.  After that period of time, it didn't matter which I used since they both became sticky and attracted dust and such.

I use Mother's on my car and would not use it on my products because of the labor.

[Audrey]

I use the Clarity a lot as it is what I got when I started in glass. I also have used Turtle Wax which doesnt say carnauba.I had since read a lot about car wax with carnauba and finally purchased the Mothers a couple weeks ago. Only used it once, but had more of a problem with the white residue than with the Clarity.
Does the Pledge protect the solder from tarnishing as well as wax? Does it have to be "Pledge" brand or any spray furniture polish? I have found with anything I have tried (don't know about the Mother's yet) I find tarnish and have to rewax frequently.

[nansea121]

I've have never had any tarnishing problems when using regular Pledge. It was suggested that I stick with the Original Pledge brand, rather than the newer versions they've been coming up with. I've never hear of anyone else using another spray wax, so not sure about the other brands.

I have some stuff here by KEM-O-PRO called Stained Glass Finishing Compound that I seldom seem to need. I've had the same bottle for 8 years now.

[PiscesGlass]

Hi all,
Interesting read.  I've been using Mother's wax for quite awhile now.  I haven't had much problem with white residue, but I also wash my panels with Dawn w/ a little sudsy ammonia..it seems to do a pretty good job getting the flux and/or patina residue off the panels. 
I don't use Clarity any longer..I found it was more work than I wanted to go through to remove it and it didn't seem to keep the solder beads from oxidizing any better than the Mothers wax.
I have from time to time shined up panels with spray furniture polish and that has also been a good solution.
Great thread btw!

De

[mona]

I use either a furniture polish or I have finishing compound.  I seem to use the finishing compound on larger panels, furniture polish on suncatchers/smaller stuff.  The thing to look for in the furniture polish and why people say original Pledge is because it does contain wax.  Alot of polishes out there do not, including the newer Pledge brand.  I rarely ever get 'white crud' on my panels that I use the finishing compound, but I buff the pieces really well after it has dried.  I use a soft cloth for majority of it, then I got over it again in all different directions to hit all the corners and edges with a natural brush shoe shine brush.  I've even taken a toothbrush with the bristles cut back to get in tight or pointy area corners.  You can see where you missed it when you hold it up to the light.

[Anne]

I use Clarity too and like Mona I use a toothbrush if I'm finding resistant spots. But I only leave the clarity on at max overnight. I find the longer its on the more likelyhood I'm going to get white stuff in hard to reach spots. I get a good polish with Clarity and I'm happy with it. BUT.....I also think that the success you get in any of these products also depends on where you live - the think the humidity, salt air, altitude etc really impacts the results you get. I live about 1500ft above sea level, not too humid in the summer and dry in the winter. Another friend who did a lot of glass also lived in this area then moved to the western coast - basicly right on the ocean.  She and I had both used the same polishing compound for years but once she moved she found the Clarity gave her a lot of grief, didn't polish well, her pieces got black spots a week or two after she'd polished them and they'd looked fine, that were really difficult in getting polished off again. She was experimenting with different  polishes when she retired from glass but at that point hadn't found one she was really happy with. So, I think because one product works for one of us that doesn't mean it's the answer for everyone unfortunately.

[Audrey]

Mine look good when they are polished, but get the black spots quickly too. We are in the mountains at 2500 feet and usually we don't have either very high or low humidity.

[Lou Ann]

I guess I need to start playing around and see what works...

I've used the clarity and kem-pro finishing compounds and have a feeling humidity is my problem...

I apply it sparingly, I don't leave it on more than over night, I use the brushes and clothes like everyone mentioned and hold it up to the light looking for residue; it just seems a couple of weeks later I end up with residue and sometimes I get a lot of oxidation (all stored in the same air tight container and one piece will come out horrible and the next is fine -- age isn't the issue because I've had it happen on pieces I finished at the same time)...

thanks for all the help

[Anne]

LouAnn, something else I do when I've finished polishing my pieces and before I store them is to put each one into a sandwich bag (you can get big baggies too).  I don't remove them from the bag till I'm setting up at the shows. With a rare exception I've not found any problems but the rare one will have some oxidation on it.  On those I think It was my screwup when I was polishing - not getting enough polish on in small nooks and crannies.  Repolishing fixed it for me.  So, who knows, maybe the separate plastic bags help 'set' the polish.  Don't know but I've had many customers search me out year after year and I've never had any of them question me about polishing.
'

[Scooch]

I use Mother's.  It works great.  I have no problems with crud.

[nansea121]

I use Mother's.  It works great.  I have no problems with crud.

Do you use paste or liquid Mother's wax? I'm thinkig liquid?